Sarah Burton's first official collection for the Alexander McQueen label does not disappoint. Though there is a gloomy shadow that hangs over the 21 looks compiled mostly of blacks and greys, probably as a result of the late designers suicide just weeks ago, a burgundy blazer and bright red coat shoot just the right amount of color into the collection.
In true McQueen style, Ms. Burton has taken classic menswear tailored pieces and turned them on their heads. A two-button blazer is closed off center, fitted pants are given utility pockets on the side, and a button down is adorned with oversized pockets over the chest. An eastern influence is somewhat present as well in a black and gold printed knee-length coat and a red and gold printed pair of baggy pants. I am especially fond of a black waxed cotton belted coat that resembles an updated version of the classic Belstaff jacket.
Ms. Burton had done an excellent job in her first collection for the Alexander McQueen label, and that is no easy feat. Mr. McQueen created a legacy of avant-garde garments and shocking runway shows for her to follow. Though some may be disappointed in Ms. Burton's decision to opt for a simple presentation without a runway or fancy spectacle, I applaud her for having the courage to let the clothes speak for themselves. The collection may be small, but it is thoughtful and wearable. Though the Alexander McQueen label may not have necessarily stood for all that was wearable in the past, that is just one of the things Ms. Burton seems to be changing for the house, one in a series of changes I think can only be for the better.
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