Tuesday, July 6, 2010
Thom Browne - Spring 2011 - Review
Thom Browne isn't looking to satisfy a wide variety of men for spring 2011. He's sticking to what he does best: gimmicky, sharply tailored, shrunken suits for the sartorial gentleman. This collection is 100% dresswear and 99.8% shorts (with the exception of the last look which features his famous cropped trouser). The 60's and 70's are a huge symbol in this collection. Obvious references, such as the astronaut suits that begin the collection, a nod to the fascination with space at the time, are balanced by more subtle messages, such as the knee high socks, which no longer required garters to hold them up by that time.
With regards to the clothes themselves, the collection is somewhat elementary, at least in comparison to Mr. Browne's past showings. For me, this certainly isn't a bad thing. I appreciate Mr. Browne's design aesthetic, but usually find his clothes too avant-garde to be appealing at such a high price point (his suits can retail for up to $8,000). This collection is all about the blazer and short combination for summer, paired with high socks and lace ups, some resembling golfing shoes, to add that playful Thom Browne touch.
In leu of his usual cropped pant, this season Mr. Browne has opted for a cropped sleeve in his blazers, creating yet another play on the classic suit by letting his man show a little shirt cuff. The patters on the blazers were mostly simple stripes or plaids, but there were some more experimental options in a shark print, bright sequins, and some knitted pieces. The shorts were fairly simple throughout the collection, allowing for the blazers to hold the attention. It is quite clear that Mr. Browne wants his customer to invest in a a wacky blazer for spring 2011 and work his wardrobe around it. My favorite piece was a navy and grey plaid pattered blazer. As a separate, I could see it as a versatile piece for the warmer months.
Thom Browne has outfitted his models in full NASA gear, smeared their lips with gold, and masked their faces with aviator sunglasses, but the beautifully tailored clothing and inventive design have always made it impossible for the Thom Browne man to blend in, and thats exactly what makes his brand covetable and unique.