It seems Antonio Marras has taken the Kenzo man in the same direction as Junya Watanabe took his man earlier in the week, that is, in the direction of the Mediterranean. Though one can definitely see the similarities between the two collections - lots of outerwear, navy and white striped tees, double-breasted blazers - Mr. Marras's designs are less plays on the classics than they are inspired by them, but reworked with a Japanese aesthetic for the modern Kenzo customer.
One of the first looks on the runway is a navy double-breasted suit with a blue and white stripped detailing. The suit is slim cut and stylish, but paired with white boots and just a hint of more blue and white stripes in the form of a tee underneath the suit jacket, quite playful. I believe that this look is the perfect summation of the collection as a whole: chic clothes that are hindered by their desire to be both sophisticated, somewhat like the looks that walked the Dolce & Gabbana runway in Milan, and playful, like the preppier styles of Mr. Watanabe.
The collection as a whole felt disjointed. Despite this, though, there are quite a few pieces in the collection that I wanted in my closet. Some standouts included a the thick nordic-like cardigan that came in both blue and grey, a plaid three button blazer (though, in my opinion, that piece, among others, would be better suited for the fall), a knit motorcycle-zip sweater in cream, and a khaki safari jacket. My least favorite looks were probably those that were produced in the neons, colors that I felt looked out of place in a collection of mostly neutrals.
Though it was not a perfect collection, Mr. Marras did manage to create a wearable collection. Although it lacked cohesiveness, the clothes were relaxed, luxurious, and thoughtful, three distinctive qualities of the Kenzo man.
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