Saturday, September 18, 2010

Antonio Azzuolo - Spring 2011 - Review

Antonio Azzuolo is known for his quirky take on men's tailoring, producing beautiful suits and separates with looks ranging from fur lapeled sports jackets to western inspired nordic sweaters.

This collection looked to be inspired by both the gentlemen of the 1850's and the prepsters of Take Ivy. Bowler hats and suspenders were paired with Azzuolo's take on the anorak and varsity jacket, as well as cardigans in a series of electric colors. My favorite pieces included a thick striped shawl collar cardigan and a navy safari jacket.

While the individual looks were unmistakably Antonio Azzuolo, the collection as a whole felt less focused than his previous efforts. While Azzuolo usually tends to pick a theme and stick to it, the multiple references of this collection contributed to a feeling of disjointedness.

Or maybe this was a result of his shift in focus towards more sportswear inspired looks as opposed to his mostly formalwear heavy collections of the past. Dress trousers and button downs were replaced with shorts and tees this season, creating a half-baked look lacking his trademark playful sophistication. While I appreciate the effort, this collection demonstrates that Mr. Azzuolo hasn't quite found his footing in the casual-wear world just yet.

Though this collection wasn't his strongest, I look forward to next season to see whether Mr. Azzuolo continues this casual idea further. I have complete confidence in his design ability which is why I am sure that with some tweaking, Mr. Azzuolo can master a more laid back cool for his customer.

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