Showing posts with label Spring 2011. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Spring 2011. Show all posts

Thursday, December 2, 2010

WEEKDAY WATCHING - Louis Vuitton Spring/Summer 2011 Video ft. Scott Campbell



Scott Campbell, the famed New York City skin and multimedia artist, is the star of this promotional video by Louis Vuitton to showcase their Spring/Summer 2011 collection, to which Campbell lent his vision. As I mentioned in my review of the collection a few months back, while some of the wears bordered on "Ed Hardy-esque" with Campbell's tattoo inspired etchings spilled across them, his group of accessories were stunning. In this video we are able to examine more closely the fine detailing and design that goes into a Louis Vuitton product. Enjoy.

Saturday, November 27, 2010

Sunday, November 14, 2010

TOMMY - Spring 2011 - Review

Tommy Hilfiger aims lower this season with his new diffusion line: TOMMY. Lower target audience, lower prices, and lower standards.

The new collection is clearly aimed at edgier, rock-n-roll youngsters, but what I am confused by is who would actually wear these clothes? Plaid pants with a pink tee (pictured), a two tone denim shirt with a lime green scarf, a sherbet pullover and green and white short-shorts are only a few examples of the trippy spirit that permeates this 17 look collection. Yes there are a few salvageable pieces in the faded jean jacket (pictured) and Benton striped sweaters, but the styling is truly frightening.

Tommy Hilfiger has always stood for classic American style with a twist, a mantra that has made him one of the most successful designers in the industry. That said, his effort to appeal to the fashion forward hipsters of my generation is, in theory, a great business strategy, but lacks a sophisticated execution when it comes down to the clothes themselves.

Hopefully this collection will be more appealing in person at his newly transformed Bleeker Street location in the West Village.

Thursday, October 21, 2010

Gap - Spring 2011 - Review

Patrick Robinson is making some big changes at Gap. Starting with this coming Spring, expect a new look at Gap stores, and I'm not just talking about the logo.

Gap is known for the all-American basics at affordable prices. A quick visit to their store on 54th street earlier this week offered a fine assortment of garments with extremely low price tags. While the quality was admirable, the selection wasn't exactly cohesive or on trend (though there was a great army green military jacket for only $99). This Spring 2011 season marks a more directional collection for the storied brand and a new opportunity for fashion lovers without funds to procure some stellar garments.

Carrot leg jeans, an unconstructed blazer, slouchy sweatshirts, and a nylon windbreaker are just some of the few subtle but statement-making pieces in a muted blue, black and grey pallet that will appear in stores come 2011.

Wednesday, September 22, 2010

Gant by Michael Bastian - Spring 2011 - Review

For Fall, Michael Bastian took the whole Lacrosse theme/ Gant branding a little to far. Mistakes are to be expected in a first collection, but I just can't get over all of the beautiful rugby's and sweaters that I had to put back on the rack because they had "F.O.G.O." on the back or Gant embossed buttons on the front. The good news is that it appears, and I can only judge from the press photos, that he has learned his lesson.

Bastian's Spring 2011 showing was strictly preppy graduate heads to his beach house for the summer. Every garment walks the line between fashionable and masculine, a tightrope that Mr. Bastian has been sauntering down in his eponymous line for many seasons now.

Standouts included ripped jean shorts (pictured), a salmon denim jacket, a yellow rain slicker, and a blue and red henley. The good news for the Gant man versus the Bastian man is that these pieces won't cost as much as the down payment on his beach house.

Michael Bastian - Spring 2011 - Review

Preppy goes to the beach for Spring at Michael Bastian. That means everything from skin tight speedos to nautical themed sweaters paired with the usual bomber jacket, short short, trim blazer, cargo pant mashup that Bastian has become famous for.

While the first half of the show was a welcomed jolt, with all of the high powered colors and striking proportions, the second half did not contain the same energy, though it did offer some beautiful suiting options for Spring. A coal colored mac coat with a blue button down and white pants was sophisticated but predicable, as was a double breasted vest and grey pants.

Although the scuba sweaters could be seen as somewhat gimmicky, Bastian, whose clothes have always had a certain cheekiness to them, pulls it off with ease. Otherwise, I am already lusting for the green army jacket that opened the show, the yellow and black striped rugby, the sunburst cashmere crew neck sweater, and the corduroy shorts. Maybe I'll find a chest full of gold on my next scuba adventure to be able to afford them.

Marc by Marc Jacobs - Spring 2011 - Review

Looks as if the Marc by Marc Jacobs boy has finally become a man. Or did he just get a summer job because the economy is down? I guess "just being cool" wasn't paying the rent...

But what exactly would a grown up Marc by Marc Jacobs customer look like? Turn your eyes to the Spring 2011 collection. A sleeveless trench coats, paper bag chinos, a grey suit, a rust colored car coat, and even the odd tie were present, creating a work friendly wardrobe suitable for any sartorial post-grad. Of course, the top button is always undone, the tie is tied loose, and the shirt untucked. It appears as if he just woke up, ran his fingers through his hair and grabbed the nearest suit for his interview. What else do you expect?

Despite the aging there were the trademarc (pun) bright colors on polos, dress shirts and sweaters, as well as a handful of chic accessories. Of course he wears a sneaker with a suit to the office.

Tuesday, September 21, 2010

Michael Kors - Spring 2011 - Review

I have to admit that about half of my closet it Michael Kors. The soft cashmere and cotton basics he produces alongside his runway collection are somewhat comparable to Vince in their subtle style conscious effect. While Mr. Kors' runway shows usually influence the basics for the season, it appear it's the other way around for this Spring.

Spring 2011 offers a relaxed vibe and relaxed garments; somewhat too relaxed. Was it just me, or did everything that walked the runway look two sizes too big? I found the wide-legged linen pants made the models look as if they had just woken up and thrown a robe (or trench in one case) over their pajamas to get the paper off of the stoop. Definitely not a glamorous moment for anyone, even if their sleepwear is Michael Kors.

The earthy khaki that dominated most of the pieces looked washed out, while the pops of bright blue (which were also seen at Phillip Lim) and mustard felt awkward. That said, I did enjoy the navy and grey moments, though they weren't anything ground breaking.

At the end of it all I was left wondering where all the creativity and luxury had gone. Last season Mr. Kors gave us military luxe, while this season seems more like the before shot in the most recent GQ office-wear editorial.




Sunday, September 19, 2010

Billy Reid - Spring 2011 - Review

Billy Reid is the master of southern charm. Every article of clothing he produces for his eponymous label just oozes it. No matter if it's a brown leather jacket, khakis, or a double breasted blazer, Mr. Reid cannot help but inject his southern roots into his collections, and this certainly isn't me complaining about it.

That said, there were some odd moments in this collection. T-shirts tucked into high wasted khakis created a look that couldn't even flatter the model, and the layering of jackets over sweaters over oxfords puzzled me for a Spring collection. All in all though, every piece in the collection was wearable and contemporary (save the khakis) with a hint of boyishness in the styling.

Standouts looks included a grey double breasted blazer paired with green dress pants, a brown checked blazer over a green polo with khaki shorts, and a brown utility vest over a denim jacket. Each look could be seen either at a backyard barbecue, a cocktail party at the family estate, or a fishing trip with the boys. Ah the life of a southern gentleman.




Saturday, September 18, 2010

Antonio Azzuolo - Spring 2011 - Review

Antonio Azzuolo is known for his quirky take on men's tailoring, producing beautiful suits and separates with looks ranging from fur lapeled sports jackets to western inspired nordic sweaters.

This collection looked to be inspired by both the gentlemen of the 1850's and the prepsters of Take Ivy. Bowler hats and suspenders were paired with Azzuolo's take on the anorak and varsity jacket, as well as cardigans in a series of electric colors. My favorite pieces included a thick striped shawl collar cardigan and a navy safari jacket.

While the individual looks were unmistakably Antonio Azzuolo, the collection as a whole felt less focused than his previous efforts. While Azzuolo usually tends to pick a theme and stick to it, the multiple references of this collection contributed to a feeling of disjointedness.

Or maybe this was a result of his shift in focus towards more sportswear inspired looks as opposed to his mostly formalwear heavy collections of the past. Dress trousers and button downs were replaced with shorts and tees this season, creating a half-baked look lacking his trademark playful sophistication. While I appreciate the effort, this collection demonstrates that Mr. Azzuolo hasn't quite found his footing in the casual-wear world just yet.

Though this collection wasn't his strongest, I look forward to next season to see whether Mr. Azzuolo continues this casual idea further. I have complete confidence in his design ability which is why I am sure that with some tweaking, Mr. Azzuolo can master a more laid back cool for his customer.




Friday, September 17, 2010

Simon Spurr - Spring 2011 - Review

Simon Spurr has, in the past 5 seasons, developed a menswear brand with a coherent message, sophisticated clothing, and a clear customer. This Spring 2011 collection only further served to establish the Spurr brand as a powerhouse in menswear.

Each piece that walked the runway, whether it was the the T-shirts, blazers, suits, jackets, or jeans, was expertly tailored and perfectly simple. All the of the pieces, together, formed the building blocks of a great wardrobe. These included a nylon/leather combo jacket, a silver suit jacket, a grey anorak parka, and some of the best looking raw denim jeans I have seen in a while.

Don't expect to see any initials or logos here, as all of Mr. Spurr's pieces continue to remain anonymous, letting the design and fit speak for themselves. While it seems the rock star trend is well and alive in Mr. Spurr's eyes, his clothes remain wearable. It seems the only thing intimidating about these pieces is their price tag.

SIDE NOTE: This season marks the rebranding of the Spurr label for this Fall and upcoming Spring season. From now on there will be two lines under the Simon Spurr name: Simon Spurr and Spurr. Each lines will produce similar clothing (in some cases, almost the exact same styles), but the more upscale Simon Spurr line will sport both a Made in Italy label and a much steeper price tag.




Tommy Hilfiger - Spring 2011 - Review

Over the past quarter of a century, Tommy Hilfiger has achieved design celebrity, fallen into obscurity, re-invented himself, and just this year, been acquired by one of the largest retail companies in the world, Phillips-Van Heusen Corporation, for $3 Billion. 25 years later and Tommy Hilfiger is still the king of preppy Americana with a twist, and this collection is no exception.

Color was center stage in this collection that would look equally at home in William's Town as it would in the West Village. A classic khaki suit was paired with a pink sweater, a candy green belt, purple shoes, and leopard loafers, while a linen utility shirt was styled with salmon pants, a yellow belt and socks, and blue dress shoes. There were Tommy classics in the form of a peacoat, khakis, and a trench, but they were made all the more exciting when paired with these outlandish hues.

What will remain throughout every collection that Tommy Hilfiger designs is his innate ability to produce wearable clothes. Spring 2011 shows Hilfiger's ability to push his man to his preppy limits.




Thursday, September 16, 2010

Band of Outsiders - Spring 2011 - Review

Beach umbrellas, bunks and ping pong tables acted as the backdrop for Scott Sternberg's Spring 2011 presentation for Band of Outsiders. It appears as if his muse is hitting the beach in the South of France before heading off to summer camp, and then back to New York for a quick game at SPiN before the drive out to the Hamptons for Labor Day.

Band of Outsiders has made its mark on the fashion industry as the go to for school boy blazers, polo shirts, and generally preppy tongue in cheek, sophisticated garments. This collection managed to both live up to expectations as well as expand with new offerings that are sure to be a hit with the Band of Outsiders customer (i.e. me), come Spring.

Their signature plaid shirts and striped polos were paired with the usual shorts, anoraks, and boat shoes in mostly primary colors, though, there were a few new pieces to shake things up. A suede varsity jacket was an unexpected and delightful side note, while a black leather jacket looked like effortless summer city chic with matching black drawstring shorts and bright yellow boat shoes. Lest we forget the pocket henleys, which are sure to become a hipster staple come March.

Of course the prices are always outrageous, but the Band of Outsiders man will always have that X factor: His pants are cuffed just so, his colors are somewhat mismatched, and he wears the Sperry collaboration boat shoes everywhere, and looks great doing it all. My experience with the brand has accumulated in this realization: "Don't underestimate a great polo shirt."




Wednesday, September 15, 2010

Gilded Age - Spring 2011 - Review

Specializing in vintage inspired jeans at exorbitant prices (a pair can run up to $500), Gilded Age has carved out a niche in the marketplace for the man that values a nice worn in wardrobe of American classics. That means everything from a plaid button down, to a tarnished leather belt, to a great pair of casual khakis, to a jean jacket. The best part? It's all hand made right here in the U.S.A. on some of the oldest machinery still available today. "Mass production - it is not!" reads the slogan on their website.

Gilded Age does masculine style like no other brand I've seen in a while. I would most readily compare it to Ralph Lauren's rugged RRL. The two brands are about as similar as they are different, but what Gilded Age has going for it that Ralph Lauren will never be able to replicate is its authenticity. The use of natural dyes, organic cottons, and skilled craftsman are what makes these garments all unique and covetable.

All of these elements shine through in their Spring 2011 runway presentation. Workwear met beachwear in this deliciously wearable and effortlessly chic collection. Hawaiian shirts were layered under denim shirts, and flower necklaces were draped over khaki utility jackets. Somehow tan leather jackets (an emerging trend for this season) didn't feel out of place. The jeans were, of course, expertly washed, worn, and styled; cuffed just above the ankle and worn with moccasins or unlaced lace-ups, they were totally summer cool.

Granted, this collection is 100% my style (minus the hawaiian shirts), but I would have to say that Gilded Age has produced one of the best collections yet for this Spring season.




Tuesday, September 14, 2010

Edun - Spring 2011 - Review

Stylish, eco-friendly clothing? What was once a fashion oxymoron has finally been realized in the Spring 2011 collection for Edun. Although 15% of the collection is produced in Africa, you wouldn't know it from the urban looking styles that walked the runway.

Intricately woven sweaters were the standout pieces, paired with baggy pants and scarves. Overall, the line was dark and subtle with stylish options that will leave you with a clean environmental conscience.


3.1 Phillip Lim - Spring 2011 - Review

When planning your minimalist cool wardrobe this spring, head to Phillip Lim first. Though not quite my taste (though almost all of his past Fall collection was), that doesn't mean I don't appreciate his clean tailoring and effortless chic. Though, it must be said that this is certainly one of the more directional collections than Mr. Lim has created.

Everything about this collection was slim and stylish, with details like electric blue pocket squares, cropped sleeves, collarless button downs, and embroidery that served to carry on the Phillip Lim trademark: modern elegance with a twist at a upper-middle tier price point.

Some highlights included a double breasted black leather trench with cropped sleaves revealing a stripped shirt, a white sleeveless belted military jacket in white paired with a black sweater and white pants, and a blue bomber jacket, the latter of which I would invest in for 2011.

Lim also stepped up his accessory game this season. There was an array of man jewelry, sunglasses, belts, and scarves, as well as the odd bag in the form of portfolios, duffles, totes, and backpacks, all in materials ranging from classic leather to nylon. Phillip Lim is slowly building a menswear empire. With designs like these he is quickly on his way.




Monday, September 13, 2010

Patrik Ervell - Spring 2011 - Review

Patrik Ervell stuck to what he does best for Spring 2011: stunningly slim and boyish suits and jackets, elegant outerwear, and rounded collar button up shirts. While I'm not exactly disappointed by this collection, I am most certainly underwhelmed.

If I could own everything Mr. Ervell produces, I would certainly be a happy camper, but at the end of this brief collection I am left wondering, "Where is the runway?" This is a runway presentation is it not? To me, these garments look as if they are walking straight from the runway into stores. While it's all well and good to be wearable, this simply lacks pizzaz!

Yes, everything looks great, the colors are gorgeous, and the fit is impeccable, but one needs to find the medium between the outlandishness of Rag & Bone's Spring 2011 showing, and the controlled nature of this collection. I've seen it done many times this season, so it makes me question the necessity of showing for these designers who present less of a lifestyle that must be communicated on a runway than they do simply elegant clothes.

At the end of the day, I'll still be a Patrik Ervell customer. I would die for the navy car coat, the black blazer, and the tan crew neck sweater. While he hasn't moved in any new direction or taken any risks, his clothes are still chic. They simply have more hanger appeal than they do runway appeal.




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