TO SPLURGE OR TO SAVE - Jeans

The denim market has been flooded in the last 10 years. While Levi's still holds its role as mascot of the denim industry and luxury designers continue to produce overpriced denim offerings, "Premium jean" (jeans priced at above $100) startups, such as 7 For All Mankind, Citizens of Humanity, and Ernest Sewn to name a few, have infiltrated the market with niche styles and high fashion connections, and emerged with huge profits and expansion in the way of additional categories beyond denim that have allowed them to become powerful lifestyle brands.

7 For All Mankind is a great example. Started in 2002 in Los Angeles, their sales quickly climbed to $13 million dollars in their first year through both celebrity and media endorsements. Over the years, they have seen their offerings expand to product categories including women's, men's, and kid's sportswear, handbags, and footwear. A trip to Bloomingdales' No. 59 Metro is sure to convince you of both their denim domination as well as their growing sportswear and accessory presence.

For more aspirational brands like Gucci, Prada, and Armani, jeans have become an introductory item that serve to allow the consumer to feel a part of a larger luxury world while giving the brand the opportunity to splash their label and logo all over the behinds of their customers, effectively making them walking advertisements.

There has also been a demand for better quality, design, and materials in denim, prompting an increase in prices. While there are those denim devotees out there that are willing to spend upwards of $800 on a pair of jeans (coughBALMAINcough), I believe that it is entirely possible to find a great pair with an excellent fit and superior dye for anywhere from $40.

Below, I have assembled a collection of my four favorite pairs (dark and slim, just how I like em'). Personally, I would never spend more than $250 on denim, so you won't see any of those "hand ripped" or "limited edition dye" pairs here. That said, I am fully aware that $250 is a large sum to spend on a garment that has its roots in durable workwear, so I have a range. In addition, I follow a strict "no branding" policy (the less labels and logos the better), so all pairs depicted have little to none of it.

Of course, if you guys have an horror stories, suggestions, comments, or questions, let me know. I own a pair of each of these, so I would be happy to address any concerns.

Vince Slim Leg Jeans - $195 (on sale for $117!)

Pro: Super comfortable, excellent fit, and no branding whatsoever

Con: Doesn't take wear too well (rips and holes will ensure with a few weeks of wear), and the price...

7 For All Mankind "Slimmy" Jean - $159

Pro: Comfort and durability

Con: Branding and minimal fading

J. Crew 484 Slim Jean - $98

Pro: Cheap, great fit, and no branding

Con: A little uncomfortable, but I'm sure they will break in with time

Levi's 510 Super Skinny Jean - $54

Pro: SUPER cheap and great fit

Con: Comfort is an issue and there is the classic Levi's swoosh and red tab on the back pockets

SHOPPING DIARIES - October 24th, 2010

What beautiful weather we had in NYC today! Such a climate made for a perfect shopping day down in Soho, so I thought I would create this new post, entitled, "Shopping Diaries," to give you guys a better idea of where I like to shop and my opinions on the retail environment in New York.

To begin, I explored the basics at Vince and Unis, then headed across the street to scope out the vintage at Ina and later Amarcord, the fast fashion at Uniqlo on Broadway, the high fashion at Rag & Bone, and quite by accident, the perfect mix at the Florsheim pop-up on Mercer street.

The quality of Vince's offerings has steadily declined over the past few of seasons since I began shopping there a couple of years ago, though I did pick up a pair of their skinny jeans ($240, pictured at right) to put away for Christmas. Their bottoms have always been a standout and their new skinny jean cut is without a doubt the most flattering I've ever worn. And, by picking out a $42 T-Shirt, I was eligible for their Spend $250, get $50 back sale (basically, I got the T-Shirt for free).

Unis always makes a great peacoat, and I'm lusting over her grey wool offering that I showed you guys earlier in the Bloomingdales mailer.

On the vintage front, Ina had some Moncler just in for almost the same price as the current full-price coats at Barneys, and an AMAZING Burberry double breasted wool coat for around $500. I believe it's a size small as it fit me like a dream but, as you guys know from my +J post, I already picked up the Chesterfield coat at Uniqlo for almost a fourth of the price. Amarcord had some great military jackets and, as always, a fine selection of luxury dress shoes and long coats.

At Uniqlo I picked up another one of their Cashmere Cardigans, a slim corduroy blazer for $80 (!!!), and a sweatshirt that is a 100% rip off of of the Wings + Horns one pictured below. Although I feel bad buying a rip off, the fit and price ($30, compared to $200) were just too good to pass up.

Rag & Bone was pretty depressing. While their clothes look great on a runway (and everyone knows what a big fan of their Fall/Winter 2010 show I was and still am), in person and alone they just loose their life and end up looking stiff. I went in expecting to walk out with one of the Tiberland boot colabs, but alas, they did not live up to expectations. I knew it was too good to be true. Not yet completely defeated, I tried on a pair of green corduroys ($195). The fit was alright, but I just wasn't in the mood anymore.

Feeling defeated and competely bootless, I was about to make my way home before I basically walked right into the Florsheim pop-up store without even realizing it. The lofty space is clean and welcoming, with the Duckie Brown collaboration taking up the front space, a great selection of well priced accessories in the middle, and the Florsheim Limited collection in the back.

I tried on a few pairs of dress shoes and boots while I was there. The Duckie Brown shoes were a little bit too feminine for my taste, but the Florsheim Limited collection was perfect. The prices were unbelievable (almost all of the shoes were under $150), and the styles were both classic and intriguing without being too unwearable.

I picked up a pair of the Sentinel lace-ups in camel for just over $99 and a Fair-Isle cap for $65. Check out some pictures of the space and my shoe purchase below.

(Florsheim Accessories)

(Florsheim and Duckie Brown Collaboration Collection)

(Florsheim Limited Collection)

Sentinel in Camel ($99)

SPLURGE - Varsity Jackets

Some big names in menswear are offering their take on the varsity (or letterman) jacket for this Fall/Winter season. The varsity jacket usually consists of a wool body with contrasting leather arms, though it can be all leather. It appears that most of the varsity jackets we are seeing are in some black and grey combination for a more subtle statement, though there are a few more elaborate takes.

Vince has the most basic offering with a charcoal wool body and heavy dark leather arms. Shipley & Halmos's jacket has a simple appearance but becomes quite elaborate when one examines the construction and leather details on the back and arms. Thom Browne has the most uninvolved model with a letterman jacket that looks straight out of Friday Night Lights (minus the panther). Fred Perry, on the other hand, has taken the classic design and made it modern for Opening Ceremony with a black plaid patterne (a la Pendleton) for the body. Tim Hamilton Redux offers the most fashion forward option with a body comparable to that of Vince and Shipley & Halmos, accented with shiny metallic arms and collar.

While one can certainly find a vintage varsity jacket for far less money than these options, I prefer the trimmer and more anonymous look myself. Splurge.

Vince

Shipley & Halmos

Thom Browne

Fred Perry

Tim Hamilton

UPDATE: Jeffery on 14th St. is also carrying varsity jackets by Lanvin and Balenciaga. I won't even get into the prices...